Spring is as close to the horizon as you are to a ‘new year diet’ breakdown, which of course means lighter nights, warmer temperatures, and for us fashion folk – nautical. When Frank Sinatra’s ‘Somewhere beyond the sea’ comes gushing out the stereos at London Fashion Week you’re overcome by that striking fashion fear that you’re stuck with it for yet another year (just like the annual spring florals which are embedded in the vicious circle of seasonal trends).
So what is it this time – Anchors? Blue and white stripes? Or are we going to break the ground here and dress the conveniently forgotten atypical sailor for once?
Kinder Aggugini is an ‘Italian ex-punk’ to quote his own website’s bio and is the saviour of the seas for me this spring. Giving a subtle but significant twist on the traditional sailor-style, Aggugini draws on his experience from working for various esteemed fashion houses from Versace to Vivienne Westwood. Described by Observer Magazine journalist Alice Fisher as ‘the world’s most feted ‘ghost designer”, tutored by Vivienne Westwood, indispensable to Donatella Versace and Loved by Vogue’ you get a little taste of why I am so giddy about his sea-inspired collection for 2013.
Based on the idea of the average girl escaping her average life during the summer months, Aggugini draws on a number of prints including gingham and paisley commonly branded ugly, inexpressive and dreary and makes them fun, ‘frolicy’ and covetable. The Captain, as I have affectionately renamed him for this probably short-lived designer crush, has managed to go where no man has ever gone before and conquered a nautical themed collection which doesn’t explicitly scream maritime paraphernalia or marine life – clever.
His S/S 2013 designs include prints which can transcend seasons and from afar are visually inoffensive and inconspicuous. It’s only once you get up close and personal you realise the fine, detailed pattern on the silk pinafores and culottes are made up of a series of intricate desert island maps; no glitter encrusted anchor-print tees here. High Street - take note.