You may be on a first name basis with the likes of Vivienne, Karl and Marc but it’s time to open your eyes to some new talent. As fashion month gets underway, amid the designer heavy weights and legendary labels, it is very easy to forget that away from each fashion capital, a new tide of budding design talent is bubbling away at the surface. Check out our picks for the seven new, and little known designers who have earned some much deserved hype.
Yatri is a recent graduate who won the ‘Emerging Designer of the Year Award’ from the Midlands Fashion Designer Awards last year. The luxury womenswear designer is based in Leicester and discovered her passion for design during a course in 3d design and textiles. She said of her success: “The Midlands Fashion Designer Awards are a great platform for all designers – not only is it a great opportunity to be part of, but they recognise talent within the Midlands. It gives designers the chance to showcase their work in what I would like to call a ‘niche show’, as it’s a very concentrated platform to celebrate designers within the Midlands.” Her embellished sequined garments and luxe leather accessories make her definitely one to watch.
This graduate won the ‘Womenswear Award’ at Graduate Fashion week with a vibrant and exuberant collection heavily inspired by her travels to Australia and Thailand. The line, ‘Laundry Basket’ embraces colour and print, with some designs even inspired by postcards amassed from car boot sales. Describing her inspiration for the line Owens said: “The range’s components have evolved from constantly photographing and re-drawing laundry whereby experimenting with the shapes, shadows and colour, the silhouette in 3D eventually happened. This continual process has taught me now how clothes are designed from start to finish.” For all its fun and vivacious prints, the line still maintains the classic cuts and shapes made for the everyday, wearable pieces that we all love.
Northumbria University graduate Molly Ratcliff has a strong belief in beautiful but intriguing fashion with an emphasis placed on decisive cuts, immaculate construction and unusual texture and detail. After winning last year’s ‘Mulberry Award’ for accessories at Graduate Fashion Gala, Ratcliff was praised for her “must-have clutch bags” and her professionalism. “The inspiration comes from my normal day-to-day living. If I spot something I like, I take note of it and try to use it later in a design or illustration,” says Ratcliff. The young designer is currently undergoing work experience with American Apparel where she is busy producing illustrations for the Indie chic label.
22 year-old Pancholi combines her Indian culture with traditional British knitwear techniques. Every day items, including shoelaces, straws, traditional Indian bangles, lollipop sticks and whistles are incorporated into her designs. “This whole collection for me is about colour and texture; textures which are created using unconventional methods and products to knit with, such as rubber and plastics. I tend to take items that we have a tendency to use every day and incorporate it within clothing, which are knitted. You would only recognise the items inserted when you come close to touch and feel the garments. I always encourage people to get a feel for the garments, so to explore my work and discover its elements.”
Katherine Humphery and Patrick McDermott run boutique fashion label, ‘Three Little Ducks’. Hailing from Sydney, Australia, the pair use fabrics of the highest quality only and focus on creating versatile, elegant and individual pieces. Their line is full of classic tailoring, figure flattering cuts and simple, feminine details. The duo’s passion in their work shines through in their clear understanding of the power of fashion. “Even the most serious fashion cynic can find him or herself in unconscious appreciation of a tailored shirt and aware of its persuasive influence on both wearer and observer,” they said. Just a peek at their work will have you manically calculating shipping costs from the land down under!
Denmark native List-Thomsen merges her love of art with her talent for design. Working with unconventional materials to make straight cut-tops, dresses and pants, the 28-year-old’s line includes a raw, edgy and almost futuristic appeal. “Everything is based on a shirt, she explains,” nodding to the simple silhouettes and unfinished hems present in her clothing. “It’s not overdone in any way and I think that’s totally what makes it.” The intriguing elements of her collection, however, are the unmistakable rubber dots inserted in each garment, concealed as polka dots, holes and circles, the adornments confirm her inspiration from artists like Steven Parrino and Michelangelo. Stay tuned for classic tailoring with an exciting edge.